Estimated reading time: 11 minutes – SBFL* Stop 34 – Planning to visit  – As I imagined easing the wheel starboard, navigating our vessel along the snaking route of the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) from Thunderbolt, I chuckled at an old boating joke, “Why don’t secrets work on a boat? Because they always leak!” Yes, friends, the puns are as abundant as the natural beauty on the ICW, and I promise they’ll get better as we get closer to our next destination: the enchanting city of Savannah, Georgia.

Docking at Savannah would be a pleasure. From the bustling Savannah City Dock to the quieter Thunderbolt Marina just a little further downriver, Savannah is an inviting city.  In terms of luxurious accommodations for your vessel, the Isle of Hope Marina is worth a special mention. This full-service marina, located on a historic site, provides top-tier facilities coupled with stunning views. Just a few minutes away from the city, it provides easy access to Savannah’s charm without sacrificing the tranquility of the waterside. The fact is you’re spoiled with all the choices you have available for docking in Savannah. All offer easy access to the city, with amenities aplenty to make you feel right at home. There’s nothing quite like securing your boat, feeling the solid ground beneath your feet, and knowing you’re about to explore one of the South’s most charming cities. Indeed, Savannah’s beauty is twofold – which lies in its preserved historical charm and its warm, inviting hospitality. It’s a city that effortlessly blends tradition with the present, and ghost stories with a lively, pulsing energy. It embraces its past while welcoming the future, just as it welcomes the countless vessels that dock at its marinas, yearning for exploration and adventure.

Antebellum mansions and Old City charm

Savannah’s Old City is an ambling journey back in time. Cobblestone streets are framed by antebellum mansions draped in Spanish moss. The air is thick with history and a hint of mystery. It’s said that Savannah was built on its dead — from Native American burial grounds to victims of yellow fever epidemics, and civil war soldiers. It gives the city a unique charm, one that whispers stories of yesteryears.

At its core, Savannah is a vibrant blend of past and present. Streets hum with activity, showcasing a unique mix of Southern charm, artistic flair, and pulsing energy. Walking down Broughton Street, you’ll find boutiques filled with eclectic wares, while the Historic District teems with tourists and locals alike, each adding a distinct flavor to the city’s melting pot. For a unique shopping experience, head over to City Market. This open-air market in the heart of Savannah’s Historic District is home to local artists, bakers, and crafters. You can find everything from handcrafted jewelry to one-of-a-kind artwork, homemade jams to carefully curated antiques. It’s a perfect place to pick up a memento of your trip. Shopping in Savannah is nothing short of a treasure hunt. Savannah Bee Company offers sweet treats, while the Paris Market and Brocante will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a chic European boutique. For book lovers, E. Shaver Booksellers is an institution, its cozy rooms filled with the intoxicating smell of paper and ink.

Savannah’s history is in its pores, from the Georgian, Gothic, and Greek Revival styles gracing the cityscape, to the Historic District’s 22 squares, each with its own unique tale. Don’t miss the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, Bonaventure Cemetery, or the historic home of Juliette Gordon Low, the founder of the Girl Scouts. Each tells a compelling story that helps weave Savannah’s rich historical tapestry. Savannah’s charm extends to its diverse neighborhoods: from the Victorian District, where historic homes transport you back to the 19th century, to the vibrant Starland District, brimming with art galleries, trendy boutiques, and innovative eateries. Each neighborhood, with its distinct character and charm, offers a fresh perspective of the city.  For those interested in the darker side of Savannah’s history, the Mercer Williams House Museum is a must-visit. Made famous by the book and movie, “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil,” this beautiful home has a scandalous past involving antiques, parties, and a notorious murder trial. A visit to the Telfair Museums, the oldest public art museum in the South, will satisfy any art lover’s appetite. This family of museums includes the Telfair Academy, the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters, and the Jepson Center, which features contemporary art and iconic works like the Bird Girl statue.

For fun, Savannah is bursting at the seams with possibilities. Take a spooky ghost tour to explore its haunted reputation or rent a bike and pedal around Forsyth Park. Really, a day in Savannah would not be complete without experiencing the breathtaking beauty of Forsyth Park. The park’s crowning jewel, the Forsyth Fountain, is often likened to fountains found in Paris. Find a shady spot beneath the moss-laden trees and watch as Savannah passes by. Don’t forget to check out the Fragrant Garden, a haven for the senses. Enjoy a performance at the historic Savannah Theatre or imbibe in the local craft brew scene at Service Brewing Co.

Taking the culinary cruise

As for eateries, Savannah’s restaurant scene is a culinary cruise. Paula Deen’s The Lady & Sons offers down-home Southern cooking that could charm the overalls off a farmer.

But don’t just stick to the guidebook recommendations! To truly experience Savannah’s flavors, eat where the locals eat. Step off the beaten path to visit Sandfly BBQ at the Streamliner, savoring their succulent ribs.

Or hit up Zunzi’s, a small shop offering the best of South African, Swiss, Italian, and Dutch cuisine. Trust me, you won’t regret it.

Savannah’s nightlife is as vibrant as its day scene. Sip on some craft cocktails at Artillery, located in Savannah’s historic district, or enjoy live music at The Jinx, the city’s beloved local dive bar. For those who prefer a quiet night under the stars, the city’s numerous squares make for perfect late-night picnic spots.

While on the culinary trail, don’t forget to take a trip to the Savannah Riverfront. Here you’ll find River Street Sweets, home to Savannah’s famous pralines. Sample their sweet, pecan-filled delights and watch as candy makers pull taffy in the traditional way. Savannah’s coastal location means seafood is a must. The Crab Shack on Tybee Island offers an experience that’s as much about the atmosphere as the food. Imagine tucking into a platter of fresh, succulent seafood while you relax under moss-draped oak trees, watching the local wildlife.

When it comes to fine dining, Savannah holds its own. The Grey, located in a restored Greyhound Bus Terminal, delivers Southern cuisine with a modern twist. This award-winning restaurant is an experience for the senses, combining innovative dishes with a dash of nostalgia.

Don’t overlook the excursions

Excursions beyond the city can be just as rewarding. A short drive out and you can tour the beautiful Wormsloe Historic Site. Its avenue of oaks is a photographer’s dream. For those who enjoy a good hike, Skidaway Island State Park is your place. Meander through maritime forest and salt marsh, keep your eyes peeled for wildlife and marvel at the massive skeleton of a blue whale displayed in the park’s interpretive center. With scenic campgrounds and picnic spots, it’s an ideal location for reconnecting with nature.

As a boater, a boating excursion to Tybee Island is another must-do. Just a short distance from Savannah, this small barrier island offers stunning beaches, a picturesque lighthouse, and even the chance to spot some dolphins. It’s the perfect place to enjoy some seaside tranquility and breathe in the salty sea air.

Actual bench from Forrest Gump

In contrast, take a step back into human history at the Savannah History Museum. Covering everything from the city’s founding in 1733 to the present day, the museum is a deep dive into Savannah’s past. And for movie buffs, yes, that’s the actual bench from Forrest Gump displayed in the exhibition! For a taste of the local art scene, the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) Museum of Art hosts a stunning range of contemporary art. With revolving exhibits featuring established and emerging artists, every visit is unique. And if you’re lucky, you might catch one of the many film or music festivals that takes place throughout the year.

Remember, there’s something for everyone in this southern belle of a city. Whether you’re a history buff, foodie, art lover, or simply someone seeking a good time, Savannah’s vibrant spirit and rich heritage will captivate you. When your journey through Savannah comes to an end, you will see clearly why this city, with its timeless charm and inviting hospitality, leaves a lasting impression. It’s a city that invites you to explore its historic streets, savor its culinary delights, soak in its rich culture, and simply enjoy the magic that is Savannah. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a first-time boater, one thing’s for sure—Savannah, the jewel of the Georgia coast, always calls you back for more.

As I imagine steering our vessel back onto the ICW, leaving the city’s lights twinkling in our wake, I can’t help but think about that initial pun. As it turns out, it’s entirely accurate. The secret of Savannah’s charm isn’t something you can keep on a boat, because it’s already leaked into every cobblestone, historic square, restaurant, and marina. And that’s something every pleasure boater on the ICW should experience.

Our inspirational authors

What about our inspirational authors from National Geographic whose route we are following for our version of the Slow Boat to Florida series on this site? What were the impressions of Dorothea and Stuart E. Jones in 1958 and Allan C. Fisher, Jr. in 1973? It turns out that the Joneses only reference to Savannah were the following lines: “Savannah, Georgia’s oldest and second largest city, looked its role—that of a stately dowager standing aloof but tolerant in the presence of a boisterous younger generation. The hum of modern industry was all-pervasive; almost as insistent were the softer undertones of a gracious colonial tradition.” 

Apparently, they passed barges loaded with pulpwood and rolls of kraft paper on the waterway that they wanted to find out more about. The Joneses indicated that in 1958, the paper industry loomed larger than cotton or naval stores, which had been for years the chief bulwarks of the seaport’s economy. The barges that took their attention belonged to the Union Bag-Camp Paper Corporation’s gigantic Savannah plant. They visited the plant. Then later, the Joneses visited a small tortoise farm that shipped their harvest to upscale restaurants in New York, Washington, DC, and other large eastern cities. As we discussed in our last post, “Stop #33: Thunderbolt, GA,” Fisher did visit the suburbs of Savannah, but it seems he didn’t go into the city or perhaps preferred not to include his impressions in his book. 

Well, that’s it for now. Stay well. I hope to say hello to you if you spot my boat, Life’s AOK, in one of the locations that I’m hoping to visit in 2023.

I bid you Fair Winds and Following Seas.

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Cover photo: There’s no better way to explore the Savannah River than by cruising along aboard Savannah Riverboat Cruises.     

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5 things I learned

• Because of authors Dorothea and Stuart E. Jones in 1958 and Allan C. Fisher, Jr. in 1973, our inspiration for our Slow Boat to Florida series, did not make any detailed references to Savannah, I wondered if the city was not yet then a charming and attractive Southern town. It turned out that in 1958 when the Joneses visited, Savannah had already established itself as a charming and historic city. By that time, the city had preserved much of its historic architecture and had a thriving tourism industry. Visitors to Savannah in 1958 would have been able to explore the city’s historic district, stroll along its tree-lined streets, and visit its numerous squares and landmarks.
  
  Savannah’s historic district, with its well-preserved buildings and charming streets, was already a popular attraction at that time. The district is home to architectural gems such as the Mercer-Williams House, the Owens-Thomas House, and the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. The city’s beautiful squares, including famous ones like Chippewa Square and Madison Square, offered peaceful spots for residents and tourists to relax and take in the surroundings.
  
  Besides its historic charm, Savannah also boasted other attractions and cultural amenities in 1958. The city had a thriving arts scene, with theaters, galleries, and museums. It was also known for its Southern hospitality and warm atmosphere, which added to its appeal as a tourist destination.
  
  While industry played a role in Savannah’s economy, particularly its bustling port, the city’s charm went beyond industrial aspects. Savannah’s historic and cultural offerings, combined with its natural beauty and welcoming atmosphere, have long been a draw for visitors seeking a unique and charming experience.

• The one thing you should not miss in Savannah: If there’s one thing you shouldn’t miss in Savannah, it’s the Historic District. This area, with its 22 picturesque squares, Southern Gothic architecture, and lush Spanish moss, is the heart and soul of the city. It’s where Savannah’s unique blend of history, charm, and mystery truly shines. Walking its cobblestone streets is like stepping back in time, and it’s an experience unlike any other in the South.
  
• Savannah, Georgia, with its historic charm and beautiful scenery, has been the backdrop for many films and television series over the years. Some of the most notable include:
  
  Forrest Gump (1994): Several scenes from this Oscar-winning film, including the iconic bench scene, were shot in Savannah’s Chippewa Square.
  Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (1997): Based on the bestselling book by John Berendt, this film was shot at numerous locations throughout Savannah, including the Mercer Williams House.
  The Legend of Bagger Vance (2000): This film, starring Will Smith and Matt Damon, features several of Savannah’s historic sites.
  The Conspirator (2010): Directed by Robert Redford, this historical drama about the trial following President Lincoln’s assassination was filmed in several locations in Savannah.
  The Last Song (2010): While much of this film was shot on nearby Tybee Island, some scenes were filmed in Savannah.
  Magic Mike XXL (2015): Parts of this sequel to “Magic Mike” were filmed in Savannah.
  The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge on the Run (2020): Several scenes from this animated film were shot in downtown Savannah and Tybee Island.
  Lady and the Tramp (2019): The live-action adaptation of the Disney classic was filmed in Savannah, which stood in for the film’s 1909 New England setting.
  
  Several TV shows have also used Savannah as a shooting location, including the reality show, “Southern Charm Savannah,” and the teen drama, “The Vampire Diaries.” Remember, if you’re visiting Savannah, many of these filming locations are open to the public and can be included in a sightseeing itinerary.

• If you have a pet, you are in good luck. Check this: “A pet-friendly guide.”
  
• You may want to try Savannah’s tastiest rooftop bars.

3 things I recommend

• Here’s a list of popular restaurants in Savannah that are near marinas and elsewhere in the city. Each one offers a unique dining experience. Try at least one, if not a few. 
  
  Paula Deen’s The Lady & Sons: They offer down-home Southern cooking.
  The Wyld Dock Bar: Located near the Herb River Marina, this is a fantastic place to enjoy seafood and American fare with a beautiful view of the marsh.
  Russo’s Seafood Restaurant: Located near the Savannah City Marina, this family-owned restaurant is a favorite for fresh local seafood.
  Tubby’s Tank House: This Thunderbolt mainstay is a stone’s throw from the Thunderbolt Marina and offers up a seafood-focused menu with plenty of Southern flair.
  Huey’s On The River: Found near the River Street area, Huey’s serves a blend of Louisiana and Lowcountry cuisine with river views.
  Pearl’s Saltwater Grille: Nestled on the edge of the Herb River, it offers fantastic seafood with stunning sunset views.
  Vic’s On The River: Another riverside dining option, Vic’s offers Southern-style dishes in an elegant environment.
  The Olde Pink House: An institution in Savannah, this restaurant offers Southern cuisine in a beautiful historic mansion.
  Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room: Located in the Historic District, this restaurant offers a communal dining experience with home-style Southern fare.
  Elizabeth on 37th: Housed in a historic mansion, it offers an upscale dining experience with a menu that celebrates Savannah’s coastal cuisine.
  The Grey: Housed in a refurbished Greyhound bus terminal, this restaurant is famous for its blend of Southern cuisine with a modern twist.
  The Crab Shack: On Tybee Island, not far from marinas, this restaurant offers a laid-back atmosphere with hearty seafood platters.
  Alligator Soul: Located downtown, this farm-to-table restaurant serves up Southern and Creole dishes with an upscale twist.
  Zunzi’s: A local favorite, this restaurant serves sandwiches influenced by South African, Swiss, Italian, and Dutch cuisine.
  

• If you are really short on time (which I hope you’re not, so that you wouldn’t have regrets) refer to this site: What to see in Savannah when you’re short on time.

• Try one of the itineraries below.

1-Day Itinerary:
(Perfect for a quick taste of Savannah’s charm)

Morning: Start your day with breakfast at Back in the Day Bakery. From there, head straight to the Historic District to explore the charming Savannah squares, especially Chippewa Square and Forsyth Park. Make sure to stop by the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist.

Afternoon: After a lunch at Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room for authentic Southern food, visit the Telfair Museums, comprising the Telfair Academy, the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters, and the Jepson Center. Afterward, stroll down River Street for shopping and sightseeing.

Evening: Dine at The Olde Pink House for an elegant Southern meal. Wrap up your day with a spooky ghost tour to get a taste of Savannah’s haunted history.

4-Days Itinerary:
(For a more immersive experience)

Day 1:

Morning: Breakfast at Goose Feathers Cafe. Explore the Historic District, including Forsyth Park and the beautiful Savannah squares. Visit the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist.

Afternoon: Lunch at Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room. Afterward, take a leisurely stroll through the picturesque Bonaventure Cemetery.

Evening: Enjoy dinner at The Olde Pink House. Join a ghost tour to explore the haunted side of Savannah.

Day 2:

Morning: Grab a quick breakfast at the Collins Quarter. Visit the SCAD Museum of Art.

Afternoon: Have lunch at Zunzi’s. Afterward, visit the Savannah History Museum. Spend the rest of the afternoon shopping in the City Market.

Evening: Dine at The Grey. Enjoy some live music at the historic Savannah Theatre.

Day 3:

Morning: Breakfast at B. Matthew’s Eatery. Take a ferry ride along the Savannah River.

Afternoon: Enjoy a seafood lunch at The Wyld Dock Bar. Spend the afternoon on Tybee Island. Visit the Tybee Island Light Station and Museum, and enjoy the beach.

Evening: Have a casual dinner at The Crab Shack on Tybee Island.

Day 4:

Morning: Breakfast at The Funky Brunch Café. Visit Wormsloe Historic Site.

Afternoon: Have a picnic lunch at Skidaway Island State Park, and enjoy some hiking.

Evening: For your final dinner, indulge in Elizabeth on 37th. Wrap up your trip with a nightcap at Rocks on the Roof for stunning views of the Savannah River.

How easy?

Marinas where you can stay overnight or longer

There are many marinas in Savannah where boaters can dock for a day, overnight or for extended stays. Here are a few options:

• Savannah City Docks: Centrally located, the first three hours are free. The City of Savannah operates public bulkheads and floating docks on the Savannah River, parallel to popular River Street attractions. Mobility & Parking Services is the city department, which manages these facilities.
  
• Isle of Hope Marina: A few minutes away from the city, this marina provides luxury facilities with stunning views. They offer overnight and extended docking.
  
• Thunderbolt Marina: This marina is located just outside of the city on the Wilmington River and offers longer-term docking options.
  
• Bahia Bleu Marina: Located at the heart of the Wilmington River, this marina offers short-term and long-term dockage.
  
• Savannah Bend Marina: This marina offers state-of-the-art facilities and is capable of handling both short and long-term stays.
  

Remember to check in advance for the availability and rates at each marina, as they can vary depending on the season and the size of the boat. It’s also a good idea to make reservations as far ahead as possible, especially during the peak boating season.

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*SBFL stands for Slow Boat to Florida.  Each numbered heading has two parts. The first is “Planned or Planning to Visit,” and when we visit the planned location, a “Visited” label appears at the beginning, next to SBFL. 

Join us on our journey of discovery along the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (ICW)! We’re taking you with us, through our blog “Trips of Discovery,” as we follow in the footsteps of three National Geographic editors – Dorothea and Stuart E. Jones and Allan C. Fisher, Jr.  In this series, we’ll show you the past, present, and a glimpse into the future, as we compare and contrast the locations visited by the Joneses (1958 National Geographic article, “Slow Boat to Florida”) and Fisher (1973 book, “America’s Inland Waterway”), respectively. But don’t worry, we’ll add our own personal touch by sharing our observations and interviews with local residents during our visits.

In this series, we’ll take you to some of the most historic and charming spots along the ICW and share our personal observations and experiences. Who knows, you might even be inspired to plan your own adventure!

My wife and I hope you’ll be able to join us on the journey, either by boat or by car. Don’t hesitate to reach out and share your own insights or experiences about the locations we visit. We’d love to hear from you and keep the conversation going! And if not, don’t worry, you can still follow along as armchair travelers! So sit back, relax, and let’s embark on our Trips of Discovery of the ICW.